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Sweet nothings
- The geographical identification of rasgullas with any particular state would not make them taste less, or more, divine
A bitter war is being waged over a sweet. Dragging Bengali pride to the pits, Odias are claiming that the legendary rasgulla originated in Odisha, not in Bengal. The Odisha government wants to get a Geographical Indication tag for the rasgulla. The GI label would fix Odisha's Pahala as the place of origin for the rasgulla. This means that Bengalis would no longer be able to boast of having invented the rasgulla, which, Bengalis strongly believe, is a delicacy synonymous with Bengal in the wider world. The turn of events is no doubt cruel for Bengalis, coming as it does at a juncture when therasgulla is all set to cross the known boundaries of its fandom to include outer space. Desiccated rasgullas feature in the menu of India's first manned mission to be launched by the Indian Space Research Organization some time in the near future. The outrage is on another front too. The rasgulla industry is the only one that has thrived in Bengal when most others have dried up. If the Odisha government gets to claim the sweetmeat, then West Bengal has to give up on the possibility of ever having a rasgulla hub, on the lines of a " lyangcha hub", which Bengal's chief minister had recently projected as a potentially lucrative industry for the state.
However, what is at stake here is not just Bengal's honour and hope of resurgence. The Odisha government is encouraging division - as opposed to integration, which the soothing taste of rasgulla should inspire - by asking for the sweet to be identified exclusively with Odisha. The potentially self-defeating nature of the government's mission is revealed when a simple fact is contemplated. The Odisha government is pitching Pahala as the rasgulla's cradle of birth on the basis of myths and literature. But as popular as the Pahala rasgullas in Odisha are the Bikali Kar rasgullas, which originated in Salepur, in the hands of the confectioner called Bikalananda Kar. The Pahala and the Bikali rasgullas are very different even if they belong to the same state. Who can say with certainty that the Pahala rasgullas are more authentic than the Bikali ones? The GI tag also means that all attributes accrued by a product are to be traced back to the place of its origin. Would the residents of Salepur not feel neglected if all the divine goodness of the rasgulla gets credited to Pahala? Thinking of things from a larger perspective is conducive to the dissolution of trivial differences. Imagine the Indian astronauts in outer space munching on dried rasgullas: the taste of home that may make them tearful with nostalgia would be the taste of just India, rather than that of Odisha or Bengal. So why not make the GI tag for the rasgulla simply read 'India', in a proud assertion of national, rather than regional, identity?
In Satyajit Ray's movie, Goopy Gyne Bagha Byne, rasgullas and other mouth-watering sweetmeats rain on oppressed, hungry soldiers, to end all wars. Those rasgullas had no GI label, but they tasted as sweet as peace.
http://www.telegraphindia.com/1150808/jsp/opinion/story_35945.jsp#.Vcoe5Saqqko'
- The geographical identification of rasgullas with any particular state would not make them taste less, or more, divine
A bitter war is being waged over a sweet. Dragging Bengali pride to the pits, Odias are claiming that the legendary rasgulla originated in Odisha, not in Bengal. The Odisha government wants to get a Geographical Indication tag for the rasgulla. The GI label would fix Odisha's Pahala as the place of origin for the rasgulla. This means that Bengalis would no longer be able to boast of having invented the rasgulla, which, Bengalis strongly believe, is a delicacy synonymous with Bengal in the wider world. The turn of events is no doubt cruel for Bengalis, coming as it does at a juncture when therasgulla is all set to cross the known boundaries of its fandom to include outer space. Desiccated rasgullas feature in the menu of India's first manned mission to be launched by the Indian Space Research Organization some time in the near future. The outrage is on another front too. The rasgulla industry is the only one that has thrived in Bengal when most others have dried up. If the Odisha government gets to claim the sweetmeat, then West Bengal has to give up on the possibility of ever having a rasgulla hub, on the lines of a " lyangcha hub", which Bengal's chief minister had recently projected as a potentially lucrative industry for the state.
However, what is at stake here is not just Bengal's honour and hope of resurgence. The Odisha government is encouraging division - as opposed to integration, which the soothing taste of rasgulla should inspire - by asking for the sweet to be identified exclusively with Odisha. The potentially self-defeating nature of the government's mission is revealed when a simple fact is contemplated. The Odisha government is pitching Pahala as the rasgulla's cradle of birth on the basis of myths and literature. But as popular as the Pahala rasgullas in Odisha are the Bikali Kar rasgullas, which originated in Salepur, in the hands of the confectioner called Bikalananda Kar. The Pahala and the Bikali rasgullas are very different even if they belong to the same state. Who can say with certainty that the Pahala rasgullas are more authentic than the Bikali ones? The GI tag also means that all attributes accrued by a product are to be traced back to the place of its origin. Would the residents of Salepur not feel neglected if all the divine goodness of the rasgulla gets credited to Pahala? Thinking of things from a larger perspective is conducive to the dissolution of trivial differences. Imagine the Indian astronauts in outer space munching on dried rasgullas: the taste of home that may make them tearful with nostalgia would be the taste of just India, rather than that of Odisha or Bengal. So why not make the GI tag for the rasgulla simply read 'India', in a proud assertion of national, rather than regional, identity?
In Satyajit Ray's movie, Goopy Gyne Bagha Byne, rasgullas and other mouth-watering sweetmeats rain on oppressed, hungry soldiers, to end all wars. Those rasgullas had no GI label, but they tasted as sweet as peace.
http://www.telegraphindia.com/1150808/jsp/opinion/story_35945.jsp#.Vcoe5Saqqko'