Tuesday, October 19, 2004
Oh, Kolkata! - By Suhel Seth
After several years, I spent six nights in Kolkata, which, thankfully
enough, were like spending six nights in heaven after the kind of lives
we lead in the Delhis and Mumbais of the world. There are no pressures
of work; there is almost an embedded fait accompli in people's
demeanour, which many a time suggests that this is the pace we follow,
and bad luck to you if you don't like it. I also had the luxury of
spending these six nights in unbridled comfort at what is certainly the
finest resort hotel in India: the ITC Sonar Bangla. The editor of this
paper, M.J. Akbar, thankfully agrees that the charm of Kolkata has still
not dimmed, which is why the last time he and I were in Kolkata together
we spoiled ourselves at the various impromptu dinners that were held in
our honour.
There is also a certain basket of values that never escapes Kolkata. The
city just doesn't care who you are as long as you, at some time in your
life, have been a part of it. Which is why even the empty barstools at
the Light Horse Bar at Saturday Club tell you tales you may have heard
aeons ago. The butter chicken at Kwality's tastes just as good and thank
god the ever evolving Priya Paul has done nothing to modernise the
cuisine of Flury's which still serves up the best rum cakes and chicken
patties! I went back to some of our theatre haunts and remembered with
great affection the time I spent with Ashoke Viswanathan savouring the
Afghani
chicken at Sutripti or partaking of Bacchus' generosity at Chota
Barrister.
I even drove past the famed Lover's Lane several times just to relive
those moments when we would sneak our girlfriend of the time to play
hooky under a starry sky until the ubiquitous Kolkata sergeant would
show up on his well-preserved Bullet motorcycle. I watched with fondness
the various cricket matches going on in the Maidan and the same Maya Ram
pao bhaji being advertised with gusto. I took an afternoon off and
strolled within the corridors of Jadavpur University and was delighted
to see Tommy Hilfiger stickers outside the SFI office: even the
communists have realised the worth of Tommy.
But has Kolkata really changed? Have the people become smarter in terms
of making the best of every opportunity? I think not. And this is why
Kolkata is still such a special place to be. The only place where a
lunch is incomplete without a Campari; where there is a distinction
between the dining room and the smoking room and where round-collared
T-shirts still find no acceptance in club bars. There is also a certain
panache that Kolkata has with regard to the music you hear. Item girls
and Daler Mehndi have still not replaced Barry Manilow or for that
matter Nat King Cole. There are hundreds who can still recite their
school song and have
preserved their college blazers and not replaced them with some foreign
brands. Where photographs are in photo frames and not in cupboards, so
that you can litter your drawing room with garish vases. It is this
about th e city that makes it so special.
I took long walks in the malls only to witness for myself, first-hand,
the consumerism that has invaded Kolkata and then I thought to myself,
why not. If Kolkata can erect malls and frequent them without forgetting
the Victoria Memorial or the National Library, then more power to its
collective elbows. I smiled when I saw the queue of people trying to
enter the American Centre. In no other city are libraries as crowded as
cinema halls. And that is because Kolkata still has a mind when all
others are busy losing theirs.
Many years ago I was part of a movement called "Concern for Calcutta"
and it delighted me no end to see that Ward 63 was still sprinkled with
the work that CC, as it was known then, was doing. It is perhaps the
only city in the world which has a nature study park in the costliest
real estate of that city. I went to Dalhousie Institute and saw an
impromptu quiz just as I went to CC&FC and saw prompted drinking
happening. The other unique dimension about this city is, if you belong
here, you are never a guest when you return.
The family asks you no questions: it merely expresses unbridled delight
in seeing you back. You can walk into dinners and parties alike; to
cricket matches and merchant's cup soccer matches on the back of your
past. Kolkata doesn't really care about the present or what you are up
to!
The visit was even more special because I staged two shows of our
English play Alipha: and the memories rushed back of a time when I would
be staging a play almost once every three months. The halls as beautiful
and the audience as well-behaved. No one picking up his or her mobile
phone and screaming Advani or Sonia. Just watching what they've come to
watch intently and with the respect it deserves.
Sometimes, only sometimes, I wish we could throw the residents out of
Delhi and replace them with Kolkatans. The purging would mean so much to
all of us. But then when one ponders, one is
Gratified that Kolkata is still a city of remarkable joy. Of prose and
passion. Of poetry and phuchka. Of people and, thankfully, no
prejudices."
Around the World: Oh, Kolkata! - By Suhel Seth