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AL-HIJR, Saudi Arabia — Fully draped in a
black veil, Irish blonde Angela Miskelly
stares out in awe as she strolls through
Al-Hijr, the ancient Saudi city of tombs
carved into rose-coloured sandstone
mountains.
Dating back to the second century BC, the
Nabataean archaeological site, also known
as Madain Saleh, has long been hidden
from foreign visitors in this ultra-
conservative kingdom that rarely opens
up to tourists.
Saudi Arabia is thought to have been wary
of archaeologists and scientists seeking to
study its ancient ruins for fear their
findings could shine the spotlight on pre-
Islamic civilisations that once thrived
there.
In recent years, however, Saudis have
increasingly ventured to these sites and
the authorities are more tolerant of their
curiosity.
Described as the largest and best
preserved site of the Nabataean
civilisation south of Petra in Jordan,
Madain Saleh is the first Saudi
archaeological site to be inscribed on
UNESCO's World Heritage List.
It lies 320 kilometres (200 miles) north of
Medina, the Islamic holy city of western
Saudi Arabia, and extends for some 15
square kilometres (six sq miles).
According to UNESCO, it includes 111
tombs, most of which boast a decorated
facade, cave drawings and even some pre-
Nabataean inscriptions.
It also boasts intricately designed water
wells that serve as a prime example of
the Nabataeans' architectural and
hydraulic genius.
The Nabataeans first inhabited the area in
the second century BC, but their ancient
civilisation existed as far back as the
eighth or seventh century BC in the
countries of the Levant, including
Lebanon, Syria and Jordan, and at times
even extending into the Sinai peninsula in
Egypt.
Originally nomads from the Arabian
peninsula, the Nabataeans were masters
of trade, dominating the incense and
spice routes in the pre-Islamic period.
Their civilisation collapsed in 106 AD at
the hands of the Roman empire.
After decades of prohibiting visitors, Saudi
authorities are now increasingly allowing
entry into pre-Islamic archaeological sites
in the kingdom, though Western tourists
are still a rare site.
In February 2007, four French citizens
were murdered while returning from an
outing to Madain Saleh. The victims were
in a party of nine French people from
three families living in the Saudi capital
Riyadh.
They were killed when two people
opened fire on them with machineguns
after they lost their way 90 kilometres
from Medina.
No group ever formally claimed
responsibility but authorities at the time
said that the mastermind behind the
attack was a 23-year-old suspected Qaeda
militant who held Saudi citizenship.
Officials at Madain Saleh say that the
number of visitors to the site reached
40,000 last year, most of them Saudis and
foreign residents of the kingdom.
They hold hopes that figure will double in
2012 with the government relaxing entry
restrictions.
Though prior consent is required for
access to Madain Saleh, it can now be
obtained more easily from the nearby
town of Al-Ola, or from Riyadh.
The highest volume of visitors is between
December and March, given the lower
temperatures in the otherwise scorching
desert heat.
Two museums also exist on site, including
one devoted to the famous Hejaz railway
built by the Ottomans in the early 20th
century that ran from Damascus to
Medina and passed through Al-Hijr.
The second museum, which opened its
doors to visitors just two months ago,
traces the pilgrimage route to Islam's
holiest city of Mecca.
On his first visit to the ancient site, Saudi
national Tareq al-Adawi from the
northwestern city of Tabuk says he was
"overwhelmed."
"I encourage all Saudis to come visit this
place," he says of Madain Saleh.
Another Saudi tourist, Ahmed al-
Moghrabi, says he was "shocked by the
majesty of the place."
A small team of French archaeologists in
partnership with their Saudi colleagues
are now carrying out excavations on the
site in an effort to preserve and better
understand its ancient history.
Madain Saleh, though likely one of Saudi's
most famous archaeological sites, is not
its only one.
The area bears evidence of other ancient
civilisations.
Just 22 kilometres from Madain Saleh is
Al-Ola, located on the ancient incense
route. The city served as the capital of
Lihyan, an ancient Arab kingdom.
It is home to archaeological remnants
that date back thousands of years,
including it's citadel which is some 8,000
years old.
AFP: Saudi eases access to long-hidden ancient ruins
black veil, Irish blonde Angela Miskelly
stares out in awe as she strolls through
Al-Hijr, the ancient Saudi city of tombs
carved into rose-coloured sandstone
mountains.
Dating back to the second century BC, the
Nabataean archaeological site, also known
as Madain Saleh, has long been hidden
from foreign visitors in this ultra-
conservative kingdom that rarely opens
up to tourists.
Saudi Arabia is thought to have been wary
of archaeologists and scientists seeking to
study its ancient ruins for fear their
findings could shine the spotlight on pre-
Islamic civilisations that once thrived
there.
In recent years, however, Saudis have
increasingly ventured to these sites and
the authorities are more tolerant of their
curiosity.
Described as the largest and best
preserved site of the Nabataean
civilisation south of Petra in Jordan,
Madain Saleh is the first Saudi
archaeological site to be inscribed on
UNESCO's World Heritage List.
It lies 320 kilometres (200 miles) north of
Medina, the Islamic holy city of western
Saudi Arabia, and extends for some 15
square kilometres (six sq miles).
According to UNESCO, it includes 111
tombs, most of which boast a decorated
facade, cave drawings and even some pre-
Nabataean inscriptions.
It also boasts intricately designed water
wells that serve as a prime example of
the Nabataeans' architectural and
hydraulic genius.
The Nabataeans first inhabited the area in
the second century BC, but their ancient
civilisation existed as far back as the
eighth or seventh century BC in the
countries of the Levant, including
Lebanon, Syria and Jordan, and at times
even extending into the Sinai peninsula in
Egypt.
Originally nomads from the Arabian
peninsula, the Nabataeans were masters
of trade, dominating the incense and
spice routes in the pre-Islamic period.
Their civilisation collapsed in 106 AD at
the hands of the Roman empire.
After decades of prohibiting visitors, Saudi
authorities are now increasingly allowing
entry into pre-Islamic archaeological sites
in the kingdom, though Western tourists
are still a rare site.
In February 2007, four French citizens
were murdered while returning from an
outing to Madain Saleh. The victims were
in a party of nine French people from
three families living in the Saudi capital
Riyadh.
They were killed when two people
opened fire on them with machineguns
after they lost their way 90 kilometres
from Medina.
No group ever formally claimed
responsibility but authorities at the time
said that the mastermind behind the
attack was a 23-year-old suspected Qaeda
militant who held Saudi citizenship.
Officials at Madain Saleh say that the
number of visitors to the site reached
40,000 last year, most of them Saudis and
foreign residents of the kingdom.
They hold hopes that figure will double in
2012 with the government relaxing entry
restrictions.
Though prior consent is required for
access to Madain Saleh, it can now be
obtained more easily from the nearby
town of Al-Ola, or from Riyadh.
The highest volume of visitors is between
December and March, given the lower
temperatures in the otherwise scorching
desert heat.
Two museums also exist on site, including
one devoted to the famous Hejaz railway
built by the Ottomans in the early 20th
century that ran from Damascus to
Medina and passed through Al-Hijr.
The second museum, which opened its
doors to visitors just two months ago,
traces the pilgrimage route to Islam's
holiest city of Mecca.
On his first visit to the ancient site, Saudi
national Tareq al-Adawi from the
northwestern city of Tabuk says he was
"overwhelmed."
"I encourage all Saudis to come visit this
place," he says of Madain Saleh.
Another Saudi tourist, Ahmed al-
Moghrabi, says he was "shocked by the
majesty of the place."
A small team of French archaeologists in
partnership with their Saudi colleagues
are now carrying out excavations on the
site in an effort to preserve and better
understand its ancient history.
Madain Saleh, though likely one of Saudi's
most famous archaeological sites, is not
its only one.
The area bears evidence of other ancient
civilisations.
Just 22 kilometres from Madain Saleh is
Al-Ola, located on the ancient incense
route. The city served as the capital of
Lihyan, an ancient Arab kingdom.
It is home to archaeological remnants
that date back thousands of years,
including it's citadel which is some 8,000
years old.
AFP: Saudi eases access to long-hidden ancient ruins
